Saturday, June 8, 2013

Gdansk and a queue

Alrighty then. We've wrapped up our final day in Gdánsk, including a couple of destinations outside of the city. Here's the recap.
Yesterday, we started with the Amber Museum, which explains how amber is made that we now mostly use for jewelry. The young scientist in the crowd was rather taken with the process of insects being trapped and preserved in sap, and delighted to identify various insects in the amber samples. Flies make up 70% of insects trapped in amber, and so her request to see a beetle was unfulfilled. The amber museum is in an old prison, so after you see amber you can walk down the corridor and see where they kept the dangerous criminals.
Perhaps in the spirit of redemption, we then went to St Mary's cathedral. And climbed the tower. 400 stairs. With a 5 year old. Actually- she rocked the ascent. Now, though, it's time to revisit lines in Poland. I've written before about the curious nature of lining up for things in Poland, but after experiencing a line-barger in the cathedral, I give you a snippet from one of our guidebooks:
A seemingly straightforward concept, while standing in an orderly line is probably unconsciously ingrained where you come, here in Poland queuing is a cutthroat game of cunning and sabotage. It appears that decades of communist rule, which featured endless necessity-induced queuing to obtain the most basic goods obliterated any respect the Poles had for the concept of an organized line. Such a queue did not bring about any reward during the cold war era. Sadly, the most courteous family was the family without toilet paper in those days. Rudeness and results began an unholy marriage and queue barging became a common practice that endures to this day. In such situations patience is both a blessing and a curse as everyone and (especially) their mother will attempt to oust you in line. Tactics include confusing and deceptive bursts of Polish dialogue to the effect of “I was standing in front of you” (when they clearly were not), “I’m late for something, I have to go before you” or more commonly “I’m older than you, let me go first.” Should you give any space between you and the person in front of you (a courteous gesture in most civilised countries) it will be filled by someone who either completely ignores the fact that you are there, or spears you with an umbrella and a glare to ensure there’s no protest. Also, if a person feels their needs can be easily satisfied it’s agreed that said person need not stand in line, but march straight to the window, interrupt whatever is happening there and expect to be assisted. Sadly, this practice is upheld by clerks who will stop fulfilling your request to attend to the barger’s request. Taking into account all of these factors, perhaps the only recourse is indeed a tenacious complacency
We found our place in line, though, and ascended the 78 meter tower:


The first pic below is our street - Mariacka. The second is the town hall.





Above, MK peers up at the tower she just climbed.
After a toy museum, we went to the maritime museum. I'd bore you terribly if I tried to summarize the contents, but it was interesting to see how the evolution of boats and industry (including warfare) shaped a culture and country. Below is the outside of the museum - mostly so you can see that there are several floors that are accessed by stairs. Another oddity of Polish museums: there are many docents/attendants who follow you around the museum, and open and close doors to route you in the proper directions.


Today, we started just north of Gdánsk in Oliwa Gdánsk, with the Oliwa Cathedral. A surely maligned kitchen boy started a fire in 1350 and burned down the church, but the Swedes did the same a couple hundred years later. It's now famous for the organ, finished in 1780. It has moving cherubs and spiny things, and makes all kinds of unexpected sounds. Nod for you organ buffs: 7896 pipes and 110 registers. They do 20 minute concerts on the hour, so we got to hear some nice music, and some of those crazy sounds.





Then, to Sopot, just north of Gdánsk. Lots of beachfront to play on, and a 511 meter pier (longest wooden pier in Europe) with a new marina at the end of it.

Looking back to shore from the end of the pier:



If you like, you can go for a ride on the bay in a RIB (for a small fee, of course). I was tempted, but thought this boat might be too slow...


Lastly, we drove north to see the Rozewie lighthouse. It used to be the northernmost point in Poland, but they recalculated and decided it's not. But, the lighthouse and views of the Baltic are lovely (it's glassed in at the top- I'm sure good for tourist safety, not so much for pictures).




We made our way back to Gdansk for dinner, and a bit more lody. And found a fountain - with lions!


Tomorrow: a fairly early start to drive back to Poznan. By the way, I've done absolutely no justice to the history of Gdánsk and surrounding regions. There's all kinds of conflict with the Germans (and Swedes, and knights, and others), it's existence as a free state two different times, the solidarity movement, and more. Maybe you have an encyclopedia. Or a Wikipedia.

Thursday, June 6, 2013

Dzien Dobry, from Gdánsk

We are in Gdánsk, having arrived yesterday from Poznan. We passed lots of beautiful, green countryside, and managed to avoid the old ladies teetering along on their bicycles. Certain members of our party are vehemently opposed to leaning out car windows to take photos, and forbade the driver from doing so. So a Capp tradition is vanquished....
Gdánsk, formerly Danzig, is a wonderful city, and those readers that might remember the first trip here will have to forgive me if I repeat history or photos. Our flat is on Mariacka street, one that was carefully reconstructed after being bombed in WWII. We are just a few steps from St. Mary's cathedral, the largest brick cathedral in the world, or so boasts the Internet. It is quite large...
Here are a few shots from our walk yesterday afternoon.









Second to last is a palace of some Polish king, with St. Mary's in the background. The picture above features the cats of Gdansk. There is some controversy about the felines in Gdansk stemming from the early 1900s when Gdansk was declared an independent state. The Germans still believed that Danzig should be part of Germany, and in an unsuccessful act of insurgency, imported German cats. Kidding about the cats.

Monday, June 3, 2013

Short photo essay about Poznan

Actually, it's possible I might offend real photo essays with this.
Some shots of the Stary Rynek, or Old Town Square. It's one of my favorite things about Poznan. Someday, I'd like to take a really wonderful photo of the square. I think that would require me getting up early and going there, and gaining access to a top floor window...






One of my other favorite things are cobble stone streets that wind around things like a Stary Rynek and hide little cafes and shops.



This is what happens when you tell a 5 year old urchin that you want a picture with no people in it. Good thing she's a cute urchin.

And, I feel like in Poland sometimes you see things that are just a little crazier than in other places. Like jamming a Cadillac into a restaurant. One of the guys trying to manhandle the car is in sandals.




There are also nice playgrounds in the city.




And I like trams.

This is a view of Ostrow Tumski, or cathedral island, where the Peter and Paul cathedral, or Poznan Cathedral sits. The original structure was build around 968, and then in true Polish fashion, was destroyed and rebuilt several times. After it was burned in WWII, and then rebuilt, it hasn't been destroyed again. Progress!


That last one I doctored with an app called Snapseed. Good times. Light was lousy (user error?) this morning when M and I went to the playground, so I've resorted to trickery.
Do Widzenia!

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Museums and Lody.

We spent today with our friends Ania, Łucasz, and Zosia. It was "Kid's Day" in Poznan which means there are events all over the city to spoil - or indulge - or appreciate your children. So we went to the new soccer stadium in Poland where there were attractions. Like bounce houses and games and fire trucks and police cars. You cant quite see below that all of the children in Poznan were here and so there were very long lines for all of the things.

Some of us were detained because of unruly behavior in the lines.


Actually, we abandoned and went to do something else, after we waited in line to pose with goats.


The goats are a quirky bit of folklore that you find all over Poznań, but I'll get into that later. Maybe. We traveled south of Poznan to Komorniki to see an agriculture museum with a "palace" on the grounds. The palace is a large home that was, of course, commandeered by the Nazis in WWII, and then eventually taken over by some local government to be a school to learn horse-shoeing. I'm not making any of that up. The grounds are beautiful and there are lots of agricultural implements to see and ponder. A shout out to Whitman County:



Also at the museum were bee hives (not occupied).



We then went to dinner. This place is favored by Łucasz, good food and large quantities for when you're working. It's next to a gas station next to a highway. "Milk bars," by the way, were communist era establishments where you could find inexpensive food - but no alcohol. The food was fantastic (we forgot to take pictures of our entrees - how poorly we do social media) and the portions were massive. We also fed 6 people for $27.


Then, on to the Muzeum Arkadego Fiedlera. Arkady Fiedler traveled all around the world collecting various things - masks, statues, carvings, animal skins, beetles, photos, and the like. His home south of Poznan, in a town called Puszczykowo, is now a museum where you can see all kinds of things from his journeys, and some not. For example, there's a 1:9 replica of a 53 meter high budda that was demolished by the Taliban in Afghanistan in 2001:


There is also a 1:1 replica of the Santa Maria in the yard. Yes- the Santa Maria that Columbus sailed, and yes, it was actual size.



Arkady's sons finished the project, and a direct descendent of my old buddy Christopher came to the unveiling.

Or, if the Santa Maria seems like it might be too slow, you could hop in the Hawker Hurricane parked next to the boat. My pics don't do this justice- you should check out the museum web page and click the Santa Maria link to see photos and more. Also check Wikipedia for some info about Arkady - though the list of books in English is deceptive- the wall of books in Polish is more than impressive. As is his list of travels:

  • 1927 - northern Norway
  • 1928 - southern Brasil
  • 1933 - Amazonia and eastern Peru
  • 1935 - Canada
  • 1937 - Madagascar (specifically Ambinanitelo)
  • 1939 - Tahiti
  • 1940 - France, Great Britain
  • 1942 - 1943 - USA, Trinidad, Guiana, Brasil
  • 1945 - Canada
  • 1948 - Mexico
  • 1952 - 1953 - USRR (Georgia)
  • 1956 - 1957 - Indochina (northern Vietnam, Laos, Camboja)
  • 1959 - 1960 - Africa (Guinea, Ghana)
  • 1961 - north-western Kanada
  • 1963 - 1964 - Brasil, Guiana
  • 1965 - 1966 - Madagascar
  • 1967 - Brasil
  • 1968 - USRR (eastern Siberia)
  • 1969 - Nigeria
  • 1970 - Peru
  • 1971 - West Africa
  • 1972 - Canada (British Columbia, Alberta, Quebec)
  • 1973 - South America
  • 1975 - Canada (Ontario, Quebec)
  • 1976 - 1977 - West Africa
  • 1978 - 1979 - Peru
  • 1980 - Canada
  • 1981 - West Africa


For the museum: http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=www.fiedler.pl%0A
If that doesn't work, plug this into google translate: http://www.fiedler.pl



And then, a stop for coffee and lody, which you might remember is ice cream. "Poles are loony for lody," one of my guidebooks says... Today's happened to be particularly delicious gelato style lody.
Next time - tune in for "Inducing cardiac stress by driving and parking in places that might not be roads or parking spaces," or "The Pigeons in the Stary Rynek."